Nissan 12200-4W001 CRANKSHAFT Assembly

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Remove all burrs from the crankshaft oil holes with a stone, file or scraper. The oil holes should be chamfered so sharp edges don't gouge or scratch the new bearings. Clean the crankshaft with solvent and dry it with compressed air, if available. Be sure to clean the oil holes with a stiff brush and flush them with solvent. Check the main and connecting rod bearing journals for uneven wear, scoring, pits and cracks. Also, check the rest of the crankshaft for cracks and other damage. It should be magnafluxed to reveal hidden cracks - an automotive machine shop will handle the procedure. Using a micrometer, measure the diameter of the main and connecting rod journals and compare the results to the Specifications. By measuring the diameter at a number of points around each journal's circumference, you'll be able to determine whether or not the journal is out-of-round. Take the measurement at each end of the journal, near the crank throws, to determine if the journal is tapered. If the crankshaft journals are damaged, tapered, out-of-round or worn beyond the limits, have the crankshaft reground by an automotive machine shop. Be sure to use the correct size bearing inserts if the crankshaft is reconditioned. Check the oil seal journals at each end of the crankshaft for wear and damage. If the seal has worn a groove in the journal, or if it's nicked or scratched, the new seal may leak when the engine is reassembled. In some cases, an automotive machine shop may be able to repair the journal by pressing on a thin sleeve. If repair isn't feasible, a new or different crankshaft should be installed. Examine the main and rod bearing inserts.

The purpose of checking the main bearing oil clearance with Plastigage is to measure the clearance between the crankshaft main bearing journals and the bearing inserts to ensure it falls within the specified value.

The prerequisites for crankshaft removal include the removal of the flywheel/driveplate, crankshaft pulley, timing belt (for 3.3L engines) or timing chain (for 2.4L and 3.5L engines), camshaft, crankshaft sprockets, oil pan, oil pump, and piston/connecting rod assemblies. The rear main oil seal retainer must also be unbolted and separated from the block.

Following the recommended tightening sequence, tighten the main bearing cap assembly bolts in three steps to the specified torque, ensuring not to rotate the crankshaft during this operation.

Check the rest of the crankshaft for cracks and other damage. It should be magnafluxed to reveal hidden cracks, which an automotive machine shop will handle.

1. Mount a dial indicator with the stem in line with the crankshaft and just touching one of the crank throws. 2. Push the crankshaft all the way to the rear and zero the dial indicator. 3. Pry the crankshaft to the front as far as possible and check the reading on the dial indicator. The distance it moves is the endplay.