Nissan 13201-4W001 Valve Intake

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Servicing valves, valve seats and valve guides often referred to as a valve job must be done by a professional due to the complexity of the process and use of specialised tools. On the other hand, the heads can be removed and disassembled by a home mechanic, who will then carry out an initial cleaning and inspection before reassembling and taking them to an automotive machine shop for further work. Therefore, this examination helps determine how fit the cylinder head and valve train components are as well as what kind of repairs and new parts are necessary when one goes to an auto machine shop. The valves and springs will then be removed by the machine shop while at it they will work on the valves or replace those that are worn out or pitted, replace the valve guides that could have gone bad, check out on the spring retainers, valve stem keepers, and even replace some of these parts like the valve seals with new ones; finally they should fix all these back together making sure that proper installed spring height is achieved. Also if warped, the cylinder head gasket surface will be re-surfaced. Consequently, after being serviced through a professional valve job thereby leaving it almost like new in condition. Upon returning, it should also be washed again so that all metal particles or abrasive grit can be removed from it which may still remain from a recent cylinder head resurfacing or any valve service operation. Finally if possible blow air through all oil holes and passages using compressed air.

The manufacturer recommends adjusting the valve clearance at the specified interval only if the valve train is making excessive noise. Begin by disconnecting the cable from the negative terminal of the battery. Next, remove the valve cover. For manual transmission vehicles, set the parking brake and place the transmission in neutral; for automatic models, place it in Park. Remove the spark plugs and position the number 1 piston at TDC on the compression stroke, aligning the timing marks. Measure the clearance of the indicated valves with a feeler gauge when the piston is at TDC on the compression stroke, ensuring to feel a slight drag on the gauge if the clearance is correct. Record each measurement and compare with the desired valve clearance specifications, noting any that are out of specification for later reference regarding required replacement lifters. Turn the crankshaft 240 degrees clockwise and measure the clearances of the indicated valves, then turn it an additional 240 degrees clockwise and measure again. The V6 engine does not use valve adjusting shims; if a lifter is out of specification for clearance, it must be replaced with a new lifter of a different thickness. Mark the lifters to be replaced and record their corresponding valves, using a micrometer to measure the thickness of each lifter precisely at the center. To calculate the correct thickness for a replacement lifter that will achieve the desired valve clearance, use the provided formulas for both intake and exhaust sides. New lifters are available in 27 standard thicknesses, ranging from 0.3102 inch to 0.3291 inch, and are marked on the underside for size identification. Mark the new lifters for their installation locations, lubricate them with engine assembly lube, and install them. After replacing the lifters, reinstall the camshafts, and complete the installation in reverse order of removal.

Specific to the procedure is that the valve lifter tools need to be employed and the advanced type of these valves cannot be adjusted without these, which are available from specialty tool manufacturers and at auto parts stores. Start with the removal of the cable from the negative terminal of the battery in addition to the removal of the valve cover. On the models of cars that are equipped with a manual transaxle, engage the parking brake and shift the transaxle into neutral. The cylinder head must be open again to have the spark plugs relocated; the No 1 piston should be at TDC and on the compression stroke with the marketer of the PK initialization. Check the thickness of the indicated valves with a feeler gauge and record down each of the measurements ;then mark all those that are out of the manufacturers' specifications so that during the course of the exercise of determining the appropriate replacement shims, they may be used. Rotate the crankshaft 240 degrees clockwise to the Top Dead Centre on the compression stroke to get the number 3 cylinder, it's time to check and note the clearances of the following indicated valves. Do this again by rotating the crankshaft 240 degrees clockwise so that the number 5 cylinder is again at TDC and take the clearances. Following adjustment of all the values of clearance , rotate the crank shaft pulley so that the lobe of the cam-shaft above the first valve required for adjustment stands up from the lifter. Turn the hole in the valve shim in such a manner that it is in the center of the cylinder head casting, insert the special tool for lifting the valves and by pressing down the valve lifter, rotate the tool counterclockwise, away from the camshaft. Push with a small tool located between the lifter and the camshaft, lift the lifter and extract the adjusting shim with help of a small screwdriver and a magnet or a tweezers, use the compressed air if necessary, to remove the shim. Take the thickness of the shim with a micrometer, and then to determine the proper thickness of the new shim, apply the mathematical equations to intake and exhaust sides. Choose a shim with the thickness as close to the calculated valve clearance as possible, where shims are produced in 64 types and increments of 0.0004-inch. Perhaps a shim that has to be removed can be transferred to another valve lifter where it's required hence minimizing the number of new shims that one has to order. Insert special valve lifter tools in place, and put down the valve lifter, and place the new adjusting shim in its place: but make a clearance check with feeler gauge. This should be done until all valves that are out of specification are fixed, after which, reverse the above process.

According to the manufacturer the valve clearance should be checked and altered at the given interval only if the valve train is noisy. To start the process, remove the cable far away from the connection point of its negative terminal on the battery. Next, you have to take out the valve covers and spark plugs. Place the number 1 piston at TDC on the compression stroke and the timing marks as well. Check the clearance of the indicated valves with feeler gauge, and record the clearance, and check with standard valve clearance if which one is out of order for later repair. Rotate the crankshaft 240 degrees and then with the help of the feeler gauge read and tabulate the indicated valve clearances. Turn the crankshaft another 240 degrees and do the same for the rest of the valves. These engines do not employ valve adjusting shims, if some clearance is out of tolerance, the lifter must be replaced with a new lifter of different dimension to get the correct value. Take off the camshafts to gain access to the lifters; place a 'X' mark on those that you want to change and document which valve they belonged to. Using micrometer, take measurements on the thickness of the center of the lifter. To calculate the correct thickness of a replacement lifter that will place the valve clearance within the specified value, use the formula: N = T + A-V that represents the appropriate thickness of the new lifter, T as the thickness of the previous worn out lifter, A as the amount of valve clearance that was measured, and V as the ideal thickness of the valve clearance. Choose a lifter of an approximate thickness of the calculated valve clearance; lifters are stamped with their size on the bottom side. Identify and flag the new lifters for the particular lifters that are to be installed in your car's engine then apply engine assembly lube all over them then you install them. Once the lifters are changed, place the camshaft(s) back. The rest of the process is the opposite of the removal process; reattaching all the connections, including the battery, followed by the re-learn processes.

A home mechanic can remove and disassemble the heads, perform the initial cleaning and inspection, and then reassemble and deliver them to an automotive machine shop for the actual service work. This inspection allows the mechanic to assess the condition of the cylinder head and valve train components and understand what work and new parts are required.