Nissan A2010-8J110 Piston W/PIN

You can Select Your Vehicle to check if A2010-8J110 fits your vehicle.

Before the piston and connecting rod assemblies are to be removed there are two major parts that are to be removed and they are cylinder head and oil pan. Insert your fingernail and look for any ridge at the upper limit of ring travel, which is approximately 1/4 inch down from the top of each cylinder; if there are ridges, they must be shlaped is carbon has deposited and worn into the cylinders with a ridge reamer due to the fact that it could cause piston breakage. After flattening the ridges turn the engine over so that the crankshaft is in the vertical position. Feel the end float of connecting rods with the help of feeler gauges; if the play exceeds the maximum rate, then new connecting rods may be required. Marking of the connecting rods and the caps should be done in such a way that one cannot be confused with the other. Tighten the connecting rod cap bolts progressively and uniformly, remove the cap and without letting the bearing insert drop, push the connecting rod / piston out from the top of the engine. Perform this again to the other cylinders and then replace the caps and inserts to cover not to harm them. Regarding the piston rings, measure the ring end gaps and make sure that the side clearance of the piston ring is appropriate. Locate or align the piston/connecting rod assemblies with the new ring sets, install the top ring into the first cylinder, and use the scribe-and-feeler gauges to set the end gap. If the gap is too large or too small adjust it as needed making sure not to be too forceful. Place the oil control ring followed by the middle and then the top ring with the correct orientation. It is recommended to wash the cylinder walls, sharpen the edges of the cylinder and have the crankshaft installed before installing the assemblies. Scrub the journal and bearing faces, place the new upper bearing insert, and make sure there is a snap fit without any grease. Place the gaps of the piston ring in the correct manner, apply oil to the piston as well as the rings and use a piston ring compressor for this process. After scraping the connecting rod bearing with Clean Cloth, use Plastigage to measure the oil clearance of bearing across the surfaces to mach mark. When attempting to determine the clearance, it should be noted that if the clearance is low then there could be incorrect bearing size problem or there could be some problem with the journal. Last but not the least, remove all the Plastigage deposits, coat the bearing faces with grease and put the rod cap with new nuts and bolted it with the recommended torque. The process is then continued on the other assemblies, with special attention paid to cleanliness and orientation of the components. After installation, using the special tool rotate the crankshaft to check the binding, and use a feeler blade to check the connecting rod end play once more and adjusting it if needed.

Before the piston and connecting rod assemblies are replaced, the cylinder head and oil pan have to be in particular taken out. First check for any ridges at the upper limit of ring travel in each cylinder and, if they have not been previously ground off, they should be removed with a ridge reamer to prevent piston failure. Once the ridges are gone, orient the engine with the crankshaft vertical and measure and check the connecting rod end clearance with feelers that should fall to a specific range; if they do not, it may be necessary to replace connecting rods and pistons. Ensure you differentiate between the connecting rods and caps so that you do not confuse them; then undo the connecting rod cap bolts progressively till you can remove them by turning them with your fingers. To do so, remove the first connecting rod cap and bearing insert repeatedly and gently, and push the connecting rod and the piston assembly in the upward direction through the top of the automobiles' engine, making sure that all the ridges have been detached. Perform this for the rest of the cylinders and then place the caps and inserts back for shielding of the bearing surface. For piston ring installation make sure that the ring end gaps are correct, and the piston ring side clearance also. Place the oil control ring followed by the middle and the top rings though it is important to place the rings in the right manner. Before actually placing the piston assemblies, it is equally important that the cylinder walls and the edges in particular are thoroughly cleaned, and the crankshaft well positioned. New bearing inserts should be fitted without lubrication and should fit correctly and be positioned in the piston ring gaps. grease the piston then the rings; then, in a piston ring compressor, place the piston into the cylinder and oil the cylinder walls. Following the installation, verify the +oil clearance of the connecting rod bearing with Plastigage before fitting the cylinder and crankcase side. ALWAYS, where possible make sure the surface is clean of debris. If the clearance is out of permitted range, check the bearing sizes and the diameter of journal. Last, remove any Plastigage deposit over the bearings, relube the bearing surfaces with a grease, and tight the rod cap as in the previous process for all the assemblies, while being wary of cleanliness and orienting the thrusts in the correct form. Following that, turn the crankshaft in order to ensure that there are no signs of binding and, once again, verify the amount of end float of the connecting rod as this figure should not exceed the permissible limit.

However, prior to inspection, piston/connecting rod assemblies have to be cleaned, the original piston rings then have to be removed from the pistons, and new rings always have to be installed on the pistons. Take out the rings off these pistons using a piston ring installation tool without scratching the rings or the pistons. Clean the top of the piston to remove any carbon build up by using a hand held brass wire brush or fine emery cloth dipped in solvent, do not use wire brush fitted on a motor because it can erode the soft material of the piston. Carbon deposits should be cleaned from the ring grooves using a piston ring groove-cleaning tool but a piece of the old ring can be as effective provided that he or she does not take along any metal or scratch the groove. Once the deposits have been removed, flush the piston/rod assemblies with solvent and air-dry them making sure that the oil return holes are NOT restricted. If the pistons and cylinder walls are basically sound and have not been machined oversize to increase engine displacement, new pistons probably aren't needed; however, new piston rings always should be installed during a rebuild. Every single piston, cylinder surface, should be examined for cracks, scoring, scuffing, holes and burned areas, because all these signs can tell about overheating and abnormal combustion, and in such a case, the cooling and lubrication systems must be checked. Universally distributed pitting indicates the coolant intrusion into the combustion chamber or crankcase, which has to be fixed to avoid similar occurrence in the future. Use a feeler to check the side clearance and record the reading in different places, in the grooves of the pistons; make sure that the accurate ring is fitted correctly in each groove; if the gaps are too wide, new pistons will need to be purchased. Checker procedure should be to measure the bores and accompanying pistons; if the clearance is more than designated-the block must be rebored and pistons and rings replaced. Piston to rod clearance can be determined by trying to twist the piston and the rod in different directions; if there are visible misalignments then this MUST be culled, and may require resizing of the bore (or others means) and new pins by an automotive machine shop. In case pistons have to be separated from the connecting rods, the latter also must be taken to the machine shop to check for bend and twist further, the connecting rods should be visually checked for cracks and damage, the rod caps and old bearings are to be removed temporarily, the surfaces must be cleaned and then checked whether there were any nicks or scratches before the bearings are replaced and the caps are tighten. In any case if the engine is being rebuilt because of connecting rod knock, new or rebuilts rods must be fitted.

Loosen each of the connecting rod cap nuts 1/2-turn at a time until they can be removed by hand. Remove the number one connecting rod cap and bearing insert, being careful not to drop the bearing insert out of the cap.

Position the piston ring gaps at the specified intervals around the piston.