Nissan 13202-V6510 Valve-Exhaust

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Given the fact that this is a highly professionalized position, and it entails the use of some special tools and apparatus, the procedure known as a valve job, which refers to the servicing of the valves, valve seats, and valve guides should only be done by a master mechanic. A home mechanic should detach the heads and undertake preliminary scrubbing and checking before taking them to a dealer's service station or automotive machine for servicing. Carrying out the inspection enables the checker to get an insight on the state of the cylinder head and the valvetrain components, know the work that needs to be done, and the new components to be expected from an automotive machine shop. The Power train or the dealer service department or automotive machine shop will then remove valves and springs, recondition or replace valves, or valve seats, recondition or replace valve guides, check and replace valve springs, spring retainers or valve stem locks and replace the valve seal with a new one, assemble the valve components, and verify the correct installed height of the spring. Further, the surface of cylinder head gasket will be ground if warped is the case. After the valve job which is done by a professional the cylinder head will be as good as new. On the return, it is necessary to wash again the cylinder head before putting it on the engine in order to remove metal debris and abrasive grit remained either after the valve service or cylinder head resurfacing, and to blow through all oil holes and ducts, if possible with compressed air.

Because of the aggravating circumstances and due to the fact that specialized tools and equipments are needed to perform the task, the procedure known as valve job which involves servicing the valves, valve seats, and valve guides is better performed by an automotive machine shop. An individual working at home can take out the head, provide preliminary washing, and inspection, then take the head to a dealer service department or automotive machine shop for actual valve work. Perhaps, the shop will rebuild or replace the valves and valve seats, do the valve guides' reconditioning, check and replace the valve springs and their retainers and keepers as needed, replace valve guide seals, assemble the valves, and adjust the installed spring height. Also, if warped, the cylinder head gasket surface shall be refinished to flatness before the gasket is installed. After that, the head should be clean once more to remove any final traces of metal particles and abrasive grits issuing from the valve service and head resurfacing functions; one must employ compressed air if possible to blow out all the oil holes and passages.

Specific to the procedure is that the valve lifter tools need to be employed and the advanced type of these valves cannot be adjusted without these, which are available from specialty tool manufacturers and at auto parts stores. Start with the removal of the cable from the negative terminal of the battery in addition to the removal of the valve cover. On the models of cars that are equipped with a manual transaxle, engage the parking brake and shift the transaxle into neutral. The cylinder head must be open again to have the spark plugs relocated; the No 1 piston should be at TDC and on the compression stroke with the marketer of the PK initialization. Check the thickness of the indicated valves with a feeler gauge and record down each of the measurements ;then mark all those that are out of the manufacturers' specifications so that during the course of the exercise of determining the appropriate replacement shims, they may be used. Rotate the crankshaft 240 degrees clockwise to the Top Dead Centre on the compression stroke to get the number 3 cylinder, it's time to check and note the clearances of the following indicated valves. Do this again by rotating the crankshaft 240 degrees clockwise so that the number 5 cylinder is again at TDC and take the clearances. Following adjustment of all the values of clearance , rotate the crank shaft pulley so that the lobe of the cam-shaft above the first valve required for adjustment stands up from the lifter. Turn the hole in the valve shim in such a manner that it is in the center of the cylinder head casting, insert the special tool for lifting the valves and by pressing down the valve lifter, rotate the tool counterclockwise, away from the camshaft. Push with a small tool located between the lifter and the camshaft, lift the lifter and extract the adjusting shim with help of a small screwdriver and a magnet or a tweezers, use the compressed air if necessary, to remove the shim. Take the thickness of the shim with a micrometer, and then to determine the proper thickness of the new shim, apply the mathematical equations to intake and exhaust sides. Choose a shim with the thickness as close to the calculated valve clearance as possible, where shims are produced in 64 types and increments of 0.0004-inch. Perhaps a shim that has to be removed can be transferred to another valve lifter where it's required hence minimizing the number of new shims that one has to order. Insert special valve lifter tools in place, and put down the valve lifter, and place the new adjusting shim in its place: but make a clearance check with feeler gauge. This should be done until all valves that are out of specification are fixed, after which, reverse the above process.

A home mechanic can remove and disassemble the heads, perform the initial cleaning and inspection, and then reassemble and deliver them to an automotive machine shop for the actual service work. This inspection allows the mechanic to assess the condition of the cylinder head and valve train components and understand what work and new parts are required.